Gayani Jayathilake

So this is one article I dreaded to post. Not because this village was invaded by leeches. But because it is such a beautiful village unknown to many, hidden away amidst the forest and most importantly untouched, that I dread taking part in disposing beautiful untouched scenic villages like this to human polluters. Yes. I said it. The reason this place is insanely beautiful and still preserved is because it is still unseen, unheard off and untouched. But I had to share this. So, note to fellow humans. Don’t go there if you plan to litter it. Just leave your footprints only.

During our vacation to Sri Lanka this year, we decided to go on our usual trip to Riverston. We did this annually like a ritual, maybe because this was the first trip my husband and I went on together. We both loved the diversity of plants and trees and it’s like this patch of green away from the hustle and bustle of the cities. This time around we decided to take family. Show them around. And we wanted to stay for a few days. So, we searched for accommodation. We decided to go slightly beyond Riverston since we loved discovering and trekking places we had never been to before.

We decided on a lodge in a small village called Ilukkumbura, just beyond the dense forest of Riverston. The place we found had no electricity supply and was powered by solar. Well we did want change. Change is what we got. We booked the place for two days. We started out rough the first day. To begin with, I forgot to take my camera and had to survive with just phone. My husband presumed he had taken a well charged tablet. But to be precise the battery was dying. My sister in law had carried her cameras. But, alas, she had forgotten all memory cards at home. It was like some sought of curse was upon us. But that didn’t stop us. For the first time we journeyed to a very remote beautiful place with no cameras, and to crown it all less reception. So, making contact with the outer world was impossible. It’s like we were stranded. It seemed like technology was doomed and banned out there in the wilderness.

We just had to make do and enjoy the beauty as it was without taking pictures or filming and leave empty handed. Well, I had to make do with photos I clicked from my phone. Hence, the quality is not perfect. Well, that didn’t last long either since my battery died down on me after the first day.

To reach the place we drove through Matale, Rattota towards Riverston. As we drove passed the hustle and bustle of civilisation, the narrow road started winding round totally different scenic views. The tall patch of trees on one side and flat paddy fields along the other, it was just breath taking. As we drove up to the Riverston Plains or Pitawala Pathana the sudden elevation in altitude and change in climate with misty cloudy chilly weather was a totally different  and invigorating experience. We stopped from time to time to get out and brace ourselves in the fresh cool air by breathing it in. One should check the weather before entering the misty mountains. The situation of  Knuckles mountain range makes it prone to both monsoon seasons. May to July the Southwest monsoon and October to February, Northeast monsoon.

By noon we were at our destination, Ilukkumbura. We decided to go trekking on the first day. And we were blessed with the company of a learned young guide, who was a resident of the area. He did warn us about leeches. To our horror, no amount of leech repellent was enough for the abundance of them. There were so many. It was like there were a few humans scattered here and there in the land of leeches. A couple of hours in that perturbation, of removing four or five crawlies from each foot every few minutes, and one looses all fear of leeches for life.

The first day we toured the village, which was breath taking. It’s like we lived in the past for a couple of days. The historical times of Sri Lanka where agriculture was the main resource. The people were ever so friendly. The mud huts they lived in felt very cool inside. We were even lucky to witness agricultural tools that were only known to have been used in the past. One resident said something that will always stick in my mind. She said, “Life is good. We have our water. We have enough food. So I can’t complain.” I noticed they had very less necessities and therefore were utterly happy. I felt guilty for sulking over my cameras, no electricity for two days, no phone coverage. They spoke happily about having an abundance of natural flowing water to dwell on, and abundance of food growing around them. They lived simple happy lives with the barest of necessities.

On our second day we discovered a shop, which was the only shop in the entire village. The owner generously volunteered to help us charge our batteries for us, which we collected by the end of the second day after a long hike around the village. On our first two days we managed to trek through Ilukkumbura, Maddeala, Etanwala, drive through Pitawala area and witness Maningala mountain (which we plan to hike on another visit).

On the third day on our way back, we drove a few extra miles towards Laggala with the intention to see Sera Ella (Sera Waterfall). Boy, were we happy we decided to go. The drop of water was at it’s fullest and heard it is so throughout the year. What was most interesting is, there are steps leading to a cave behind the white sheet of water. It was just an immaculate experience.

We did leave empty handed after this rough trip, but with so many beautiful haunting memories of the beautiful and untouched Ilukkumbura. An escape away from technology, human contact, basically the outer world for a couple of days.